Sharpening & cookware repair
Reedcroft Edge
Knives put back the way they were meant to cut, and pans worth keeping brought back rather
than replaced.
What comes across the bench
- Sharpening most knives, 2–3 days
- Japanese waterstones, finished by hand. A kitchen knife comes back with a working edge, not
a mirror — a polished bevel photographs well and dulls in a fortnight.
- Repair and reprofiling quoted
- Chipped tips, rolled edges, and blades that have been through a pull-through sharpener for
years and lost their geometry. That last one takes the most steel off and is the most common.
- Handles and rehandling 1–2 weeks
- Loose scales re-pinned, cracked timber replaced. Old carbon knives with a good blade and a
dead handle are the best value job here by a distance.
- Cast iron restoration 2 weeks
- Rust taken back to bare iron, the cooking surface trued, and re-seasoned in the oven. A pan
someone's grandmother used is almost always recoverable.
- Copper re-tinning by arrangement
- Worn tin linings redone. Slow, and priced accordingly — worth it on real copper and never
worth it on a decorative pan, and I will tell you which you have before you commit.
Before you bring something in
Serrated bread knives are usually not worth sharpening. They can be done, one
scallop at a time, and the labour costs more than the knife on anything mass-made. I will say so
rather than take the job.
Ceramic blades I do not touch. They need diamond equipment I do not have, and a
ceramic knife that chips is finished regardless.
Bring the knife, not a photograph. Edge damage does not photograph — I have
quoted from pictures before and been wrong in both directions, which helps nobody.
Rounds
Monthly pickup, first full week
- Stirling & AldgateMonday
- Hahndorf & BalhannahTuesday
- Lobethal & WoodsideWednesday
- Mount BarkerThursday
Leave knives sheathed or wrapped in a tea towel with your name on the tape. Anything unsheathed
in a bag gets sent home unsharpened — it is the one rule and it exists because of a thumb.